• Disassembling tuffstone with a concrete chainsaw

    Stide lifting a block that has been cut loose from the wall
    Stide lifting a block that has been cut loose from the wall

    Today my colleague Stide and I were in Nijmegen again. We are presently replacing a number of ornaments on the South Portal of St. Stephen's Church all of them (20 trefoils, 7 consoles, 20 crockets and 3 capitals), and right now we're arriving at the removal of the last blocks.

    There were still two capitals to be taken out, and of the seven consoles that I've copied there were still some residual blocks left in the wall. These too obviously had to come out before the new ones can be put in.

    Nasty the first message about this project.

    The point is just that these kind of blocks are fixed very deeply inside the façade; the larger blocks even more than 30 centimeters. How to get them out without damaging the surrounding stone? If you read the title of this post, you will know the answer: with a chainsaw (read here an earlier post about . chainsaws for stone etc).

    The principle of a concrete chain saw is a machine like an ordinary chainsaw, but then with a chain with diamond cubes and a water rinse system. In the past I've worked a lot with stone chainsaws, and not always with pleasure: these machines are heavy and you need to use considerable force to keep them steady. In the beginning there were only chainsaws on hydraulics, with heavy hydraulic ducts so you had to drag and lift these things all day. Later, versions on gasoline arrived. That was a great improvement, because you didn't need a separate hydraulic station on high voltage power anymore. However, many times the air filter would get wet (the chain is cooled, lubricated and flushed clean with water) and then the engine would choke. Furthermore that thing ran on a very greasy oil mixture which meant you had to work in exhaust fumes and noise all day. Later, after the first supplier ICS also Husqvarna and Stihl came with a concrete chainsaw.

    But yes, if you need to cut so deep into awkward corners, then what do you do? Get into the fumes and noise anyway? And then I heard of the electric chain saw for stone, the Cardi Coccodrillo35, also known as Renova however. The solution! I thought. No noise, No exhaust fumes, more compact and slightly lighter(but still almost 10 kilos). From several sides I was strongly advised I'd better take a petrol version, because it's stronger. ‘Well, so it'll have take take a little longer,’ I thought. ‘I guess that's worth it.’

    Well, it didn't disappoint me. The thing went very smoothly through the tuff after all. I could cut quite easily all around the blocks, after which we could break them loose from the rear side. Below is a brief impression: specially for this blog Stide has filmed how we cut loose one of these blocks . At the end you can well see the saw technique: each time putting the tip of the blade into the stone, then with a little pressure the chainsaw pulls itself quite easily into the stone.

    (Unfortunately the sound disappeared halfway through, but the idea is clear.)

     The saw of 3500 watts can cut up to 35 cms deep, and square holes of approximately 12 x 12 x 35 cm are possible with it, up to very large things. Wish I had this before, that would have saved a lot of work!

    Update 22 July 2015:

    By now, I once again found out that petrol nowadays has a very short shelf life. My chainsaw for wood would not start. I'd almost forgotten it, but gasoline doesn't keep for long. If you don't use it on a weekly basis or use a special addition for it, gasoline will gum up inside the tank and motor within half a year, with all its consequences. It forms a sticky layer and can also damage rubber parts. In any case, the engine will not start right away; you'll be pulling at the start cord until you're dizzy and then you will have to clean out the whole motor too. In the old days you could leave petrol standing for years, but nowadays there are so many chemical additives in it that half a year already is too long. Yet another reason why I am very happy that I've chosen for an electric machine!

    Update 8 november 2016:

    Recently, Stide needed my chainsaw to cut off a block of stone from a statue. I took this opportunity to make the video below. Strikingly Stide, although he still had to get used to the saw, and although the stone is very hard, needed less than 4½ minutes to remove that block. With an angle grinder he would have had to cut the whole block to pieces, and it would have taken much longer.

    Read first the ultimate selection guide before you buy a concrete chain saw!→

    Read more…

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  • Experiment with a Cut-n-break machine (video)


    I've arrived at the point where I can cut the openings between the ferns. It's just that some of the openings are so narrow that a normal angle grinder doesn't fit in between. Fortunately there are several solutions:

    k-3000-cut-n-break-18890cc4

    Both have their advantages- and disadvantages. The chainsaws can cut a very narrow and deep slot. They are 'easy’ to handle, if you leave out the weight of the machine itself. That's because the weight is pretty close to your center, and the blade is relatively light in weight. They have several drawbacks, of which the most important is that the chain wears out fairly quickly and is very pricey. Furthermore, hydraulic machines are very tiring because the hoses weigh a lot, and petrol versions smell bad and make a lot of noise. With the ICS gasoline chainsaw I've had bad experiences with the air filter becoming wet, causing the motor to choke. These older ICS ran at double oily mixed gasoline, so you inhaled a lot of smoke. Hopefully the Stihl is better. Since recently, there are also versions on 230 Volts, but they seem to have less power.

    The Cut-n-break saw is designed to cut an inch or two, two and a half, at a time, and then break away the intermediate material with the supplied crowbar, after which you can continue cutting. It's a surprisingly quiet machine, and it uses very little water, but it didn't go very fast through the Dolomite stone. Probably the blades had become a bit dull, but I had no sandstone to get them sharp again. Also, it was not easy breaking away the material, this stuff is very tough; it is not a masonry block. The weight of the machine is far away from your center, so I found it very hard to cut above my head. Furthermore, it pinched rather quickly when I accidentally moved sideways a bit. The machine was otherwise very well designed, For example, the tap for the water was in an ideal spot.

    I thought I'd someday buy one of those machines, but it is nice to first know how they work. I think my choice might be a chainsaw, but it is a lot cheaper to rent for the time being. Update april 2015: it's a electric stone chainsaw in the end.
    Read my article about me all known types of concrete saws, and all their- and disadvantages.

    I ended up cutting the top hole almost entirely with the angle grinder. With some water for cooling and lubrication it went very quickly. For the lower two holes the break saw was a terriffic solution.

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